First Leg – Negril to Montego Bay to Ocho Rios, transfer at Pier 1 – 1h30m

I purchased my ticket at the Knutsford bus terminal with an hour and a half to spare. Fare was 3700 J’s.

I briefly toured the Square One Mall across the street. It’s an enclosed arcade of upscale souvenirs and jewellery stores. A stark contrast to the open air Negril Craft Market downtown, where you will be beckoned, hollered at, and invited to view each and every vendors craft stall or booth. Everyone is friendly, but expect high-pressure sales tactics. None of that at the mall. Take your pick. 

While waiting for the bus, there’s a pretty cool bar made entirely from colourfully painted recycled shipping containers, called Beach Bunny. They have a little pool, and reclining chairs by the beach. I bought a Red Stripe from the bar for 350J, and took my pack down to the beach chairs. There were life guards and lots of staff around, and locals felt comfortable leaving their phones and tablets unattended on their chairs. I felt like it was a safe place to leave my bag for a moment and took the opportunity to go for a quick dip in the turquoise water. Worth it. (Alternatively, you could leave your belongings at the bus station, if you have a lot of stuff.)

After a refreshing swim in the saline sea, I ordered some shrimp tacos and a rum pineapple, which came out to about 1950J, which felt like a lot. I tipped 100J anyway. I’ve been forgetting to tip a lot, and I’m starting to feel ok about that when things are so often inflated. I tip when I get a fair price as a sign of I gratitude, but I don’t want to come off as a Big Man, flashing his cash all over the place. I would rather been seen as a broke and stingy backpacker than a walking ATM.

On the beach, I was offered a bracelet that I liked from a local artisan for 500J. I offered him 1000 for 3, and we were both happy with that. If you find souvenirs that you really like, you’ve got more leverage buying in bulk, so stock up at a discount.

I made it back to the bus with minutes to spare, and met up with a couple German backpackers who I’d seen at Judy House a few days prior. We hurriedly puff a few Ganga blunts in preparation for the ride, while the Caribbean rain rinses dried sea salt from my skin.

On the bus, it’s cozy and posh. The TVs play a couple episodes of Brooklyn 99 before the main feature, 2003’s Daddy Day Care starring Eddie Murphy. The seats recline adequately, further than any Greyhound I’ve ever been on. I bring my only carry-on with me. It NEVER goes under the bus, in any country.

We make a brief stop in Montego Bay to transfer busses before the airport.

I watch the beaches pass by me on the left, thick green jungle on the right. The roads are lined with goats on short ropes and the rusted skeletons of abandoned cars, stripped down to their bare metal frames.

We cruise to Ocho Rios. I write a little, and nap a little.

Second Leg – Ocho Rios to Kingston – 4 hours

Coming into to Ocho Rios, you may see some massive ocean liners docked at the port.

You’ll transfer here at Ocho Rios, Pier 1. There are a few shops and quick food places to grab a bite before you hunker down for the next long leg of the journey, then it’s more of the same for four hours. Smooth ride. Dennis the Menace from 1993.

I arrived in Kingston as dusk set in. It wasn’t a long walk to the guest house I was staying at, but I have been advised by locals and expats alike, not to travel too much after dark, especially in Kingston. My host graciously picked me up from the bus station.